Why it matters
Prevents costly damageSkipping it eventually leads to water damage or an expensive repair.
Staying on schedule matters beyond the repair bill: a consistent maintenance record is one of the factors in a home's Roots Home Health Score, and well-kept homes typically sell faster and closer to asking price.
How to do it
The anode rod is a sacrificial metal rod that corrodes in place of the steel tank. Once it's eaten away, the tank itself starts to rust, which is what ends most water heaters.
- Cut the power or set gas to pilot, and shut the cold inlet.
- Drain a few gallons to drop the level below the rod's port on top of the tank.
- Unscrew the anode rod (it may need a breaker bar) and look: if it's down to the steel core wire or heavily pitted, replace it.
- Wrap the new rod's threads with tape, install it, refill, and restore power.
Alternatives & optional extras
- Softened water eats anodes faster; check every couple of years.
- A tight space above the tank calls for a segmented flexible anode rod that bends in.
Time: 45 minutes · Typical cost: $20–$40 for a replacement rod
A confident-DIYer job: the rod can be seized and needs leverage. A plumber does it quickly if you'd rather not fight it.
If you skip it
Once the anode is spent, corrosion moves to the tank itself, and a rusted-through tank means a full replacement, often as a leak in a finished space.
Other water heater maintenance
- Flush water heater tank — once a year
- Test water heater pressure relief valve — once a year
- Check water heater for leaks and corrosion — every 6 months
Related systems to keep on schedule
- Boiler / radiators — start with: schedule boiler service, once a year, ideally in September
- Furnace / heating system — start with: replace hvac air filter, every 3 months
- Mini-split / ductless AC — start with: clean mini-split filters, once a month
- Air conditioner — start with: schedule ac tune-up, once a year, ideally in April